The sunlight glints off the water, concrete and metal intersecting, converging and separating again as the waves crash against the rocks. And somewhere in the tangled mess of stone and metal, one can still see a shadow of the splendor from so long ago.
These are the ruins of the once-magnificent Sutro Baths, a sprawling swimming facility and a masterpiece of both artistry and engineering. The labyrinthine complex of esplanades, promenades, stairways, elevators, parlors and clubrooms was nestled on the western side of San Francisco, a stone’s throw from the Cliff House. Completed in 1896, by Adolph Sutro, former San Francisco mayor and real estate giant, the Sutro Baths were unprecedented at the time of their completion and came with the whopping price tag of $1 million. With a maximum capacity of 100,000 people, “California’s tropical winter garden” as it was known, also boasted three restaurants, seven pools at varying temperatures, 500 dressing rooms, a museum, an amphitheater, even its own rail line.
The sheer size of the facility proved to be its undoing however. Despite its grandeur, the Sutro Baths never enjoyed great commercial success. Due to the high operation and maintenance costs, the establishment was plagued by financial struggles. After passing through a series of different owners and a brief conversion to an ice skating rink, demolition had already begun on the site in 1966, when a devastating fire burned the structure to the ground. Plans to build a high-rise apartment building on the site never came to fruition and the ruins were left abandoned. The former testament to the grandeur of the Gilded Age now lies in a state of suspended animation, frozen in time as progress marches on, leaving it behind.
Once a turn of the century playground for the wealthy, very little now remains of the vast glass, iron and wooden structure. As nature is slowly reclaiming the site, a different kind of playground has emerged. The ruins have become a crumbling sensory feast for modern day explorers.
Now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and operated by the United States National Park Service, the Sutro Baths ruins are open to visitors and only certain areas are cordoned off. While this accessibility and seeming lack of danger may be enough to turn off the more thrill-seeking explorer, The Sutro Baths site remains a monument to decay and, as such, comes with its own set of perils. Narrow stone ledges, steep hills and rusted metal make exploring the site an at-your-own-risk kind of activity. A lone sign warns visitors to be careful, reminding them that people have been swept out to sea and drowned at the site.
According to the popular ghost-hunting web site Shadowlands.com, the site of the Sutro Bath ruins is not only mysterious and potential dangerous, but also haunted. Just to the right of the main ruins lies a large tunnel carved out of the rock. It is rumored that people have been sacrificed at the end of the tunnel and if one visits the site after dark and lights a single candle at the end of the tunnel, an unseen hand will pick it up and hurl it into the water below. The supposed hauntings just add to the place’s enigmatic appeal.
Even as a child, I was fascinated by the decaying and derelict. Standing on my tiptoes to peer through the windows of an abandoned mansion in my small hometown, I couldn’t quite put my finger on what exactly held me so enraptured.
Now much older and a little bit wiser, I’ve learned that there is an entire subculture that shares my odd passion. That little girl on her tiptoes with her nose pressed against the grimy glass has since grown into an adult with the same passion, an adult who isn’t afraid to force open a rusty door or shimmy under some barbed wire to get to her destination.
Exhausting nearly every urban exploration opportunity in Fresno County, the Sutro Baths have been my Holy Grail since moving to the Bay Area five years ago and would no doubt, become the crown jewel of my collection of abandoned and ruined locales. In short, my odyssey to this site has been a long time in the making.
The day dawns gray and foreboding behind my curtains, foggy and damp, a moldy washcloth of a day. Perfect weather for exploring! The clouds look like cotton candy tinged with gray and a light rain begins to fall as I head south.
Nearly an hour later, after a traffic jam, a few phone calls, an argument with the GPS system and a quick detour to the San Francisco Legion on Honor, I spot a sign bearing the words “Sutro District”. It shines like a beacon after my long and difficult journey. Sutro Baths, you are harder to get into than Heaven!
Clutching my camera in one hand and a notebook in the other, I carefully trek down the hill to the ruins. I feel a little like Christopher Columbus when he first “discovered” the Americas or how I think famed archeologist Howard Carter must have felt when he stumbled onto Tutankhamen’s tomb. Though perhaps not as spectacular as an entire continent or a young pharaoh’s burial place, the site of the Sutro Baths still has an undeniable air of mystery. Though the fire that obliterated most of the original structure was only a little over 40 years ago, the site feels ancient, worn and weathered from an eternity exposed to the elements.
I climb through a rugged hole in the side of a concrete structure that seems to be a honeycomb of small chambers. I can’t even begin to imagine what it used to be. Stretching out on a narrow concrete ledge, I prostrate myself before this strange place and all its decaying glory. The surreal, haunting beauty of the site brings tears to my eyes and a lump to my throat. I’m devising a plan to somehow stay here forever when my eye is drawn upward to the crumbling brick staircase that winds its way precariously up the cliff side. Never in my life have I wanted anything as badly as I want to ascend those rickety stairs.
The remains of the original pools can still be seen, choked with algae. Entire families trip along the rocks, mothers holding the hands of unsteady children, couples both young and old stroll arm in arm, gazing out over the water, a group of pre teen boys runs from rock to rock, laughing and calling to each other in a foreign tongue. For them, their visit to the ruins is a field trip or an afternoon family outing. For me, I have the same feeling of awed reverence that I would have if I had just walked into a cathedral.
It becomes a day of small discoveries and simple delights. A vivid purple flower blooms from out of a pile of rubble. A small concrete room conceals a graffiti mural on one wall. Bits of blue paint still cling to the side of one of the pools. A single falcon floats overhead gliding on an air current.
Making my way around the perimeter of the site, I climb back up the hill and head to the northern side of the small bay. The view is stunning, the Golden Gate Bridge stands in the distance, piercing the cloudy sky as seagulls call overhead and the waves crash against the rocks below. Ignoring a barricade that has fallen over and a sign bearing the warning, “Area closed for your safety”, I inch closer to the edge and find myself peering down at my coveted stairway from earlier in the day. Always the cautious explorer (despite my sign-ignoring tendencies), I step gingerly onto the first step. It is surprisingly sturdy under my feet as if the stairs have been there for thousands of years, carved into the face of the rock. The stairs wind all the way down the cliff and come to an abrupt end just before reaching the jagged rocks down on the beach. I venture only as far as the first landing.
Perched there, on the small balcony, gazing back toward the ruins, I’m overwhelmed by the sheer size of them. Figures like 500 dressing rooms and 1.7 million gallons of water are meaningless until you see it with your own eyes.
Poised at a spot where land and sea meet and meld, seemingly at the edge of the world, the ruins seem to be waiting for something, perhaps for some brave explorer to discover them, maybe a prince who’ll awaken them from their enchanted slumber. I can’t help pretending that the something they’re waiting for is me. “I’m here now!” I want to shout into the wind. “You can be magnificent again and reveal all your secrets to me.”
The sun is just beginning to set as I head back to the car to begin the journey back home. I’m tired and quite grubby from the day’s adventures climbing on rocks and trudging through the sand. Stealing one last quick glance back at the ruins before heading home, I realize that the secret has already been revealed. The glass-domed ceiling has cracked and fallen, and the train no longer stops there. Gone too is the ticket booth and the grand staircase. But for all its danger, its deterioration and overall uselessness in this day and age, the Sutro Baths are still magnificent.